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Unpacking more stitches and threads...
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Hi there!

I’m so happy to have you here with me today! 😊Last week, we took a peek at four of the threads (+ new stitches) that didn’t make it into our grand tour. And this week, we’re going to look at four more thread samples. (New stitches, too, of course.) Sound good? HOORAY!!!

Don’t have a Threadventure thread kit? That’s okay. You’ll still get some terrific ideas for ways to use new stitches and you’ll get info about some of Rainbow Gallery’s awesome threads.

Oh – and if you don’t know what the heck the Threadventure is, click here to learn more about it.

Ready to dive into some new threads and stitches?

Our first stitch is the trellis darning pattern.

Darning patterns are a lot easier than they look – and they’re a splendid choice if you want an open background.

The trellis darning pattern is especially good for floral or garden designs – and even for the background of this cutie-pie canvas by Alice Peterson Designs. Not only does it allow the shading to show through, but it adds visual interest without taking away from the main design components.

The trellis darning pattern would make a terrific background stitch for Fashion Woman in Pink by Alice Peterson Designs.

Pay close attention to the numbers on the diagram when working the trellis darning pattern.  Start on the left side of your canvas (or of the area you’re stitching) and work your way across the stitch diagram. Start in the widest open area and work as many full repeats of the pattern as you can. Then, go back and work the compensating stitches.

The trellis darning pattern is a terrific choice for open backgrounds.

 

I’m using Rainbow Gallery’s Hi-lights thread to work this stitch.

Hi-lights is a synthetic blend thread – 86% acetate/8% polyester. It comes in a limited number of colors and each card holds a generous 40 yards.

Rainbow Gallery suggests that it works best on 18 – 22 mesh needlepoint canvas. It’s also suitable for cross stitch.

Use one strand to work the trellis darning pattern on 18 mesh canvas, or two strands if you want to use Hi-lights for a full coverage stitch on 18 mesh.

Use the stabbing method when using Hi-lights and use it “as is” off the card. Your pieces should be no longer than 16″ – 18″ since it has a wee bit of a tendency to unravel. You may want to treat the ends with Fray Check (or a Thread Zap) to help keep fraying to a minimum.

The Gobelin stitch would be a great option for stitching the witch's skirt on Wicked Fashion by Alice Peterson Designs.Moving right along, our second stitch is the Gobelin stitch.

The Gobelin stitch is an absolute workhorse of a stitch – and it’s one that you’ll find yourself going to over and over again. In fact, it’ll work when nothing else does!

You can execute it over 2 – 6 canvas threads, but I prefer to work it over 2, 3, or 4 canvas threads. Anything longer than that is prone to snagging. Oh, and you can work the Gobelin stitch horizontally, too.

Not only is the Gobelin stitch simple to work, it’s also one of the easiest to compensate. Just follow the numbers on the stitch diagram below and you’ll be golden!

Gobelin stitch is a terrific choice for borders, clothing embellishments, plowed fields, and roof tiles, just to name a few.

 

I’m using Patent Leather to work the Gobelin stitch.

Patent Leather is a synthetic ribbon-type thread – 60% polyester/40% polyurethane. Measuring in at 1/16″ wide, this patent leather strip works best for straight stitches (including long stitches). Rainbow Gallery suggests using it for 14 – 18 mesh needlepoint canvas.

It’s super important to make sure that Patent Leather doesn’t get twisted, so keep it smooth on the back side of your work while you’re stitching with it.

Patent Leather only comes in three colors – white, black, and ivory, but those are sufficient for all kinds of stitching options like Santa’s belt, a witch’s skirt, rainboots, and more! One thing to pay particular attention to is that each card holds only 2 yards.

Use Patent Leather “as is” directly off the card and cut short pieces (15″) since the more passes you take it through the canvas, the more likely it is to be damaged. I know using shorter pieces of thread can be annoying but… it’s waaay easier to keep shorter pieces from getting twisted, so – YAY!

You’ll also find it easier to work with if you use a needle one size larger than the mesh calls for. For example, use a #20 needle on 13 mesh canvas. And remember to slide the eye of the needle along the thread as you work your stitches, so it doesn’t stay in the same place too long. Otherwise, you’ll find yourself with frayed Patent Leather!

Use the stabbing method (i.e., inserting the needle into the canvas from above, pulling it through, and then pushing it back up from the backside of the canvas) when working with Patent LeatherAnd, remember earlier, I told you to make sure it doesn’t get twisted? Well, that means you’re going to need to use a laying tool when working with Patent Leather.

Moving right along…

If you’ve never tried couching, you’re going to L-O-V-E it!

Couching is super-easy to do. So, just exactly what is couching? No, it’s not sitting on the sofa with your latest project in hand. (Although that would be a pretty awesome way to spend the day! 😉Tee hee!)

In needlepoint, couching is a technique in which thread or other material (like cording) is laid across the surface of the canvas and secured in place with small stitches of the same thread (or a different thread).

It’s terrific for adding texture with threads and materials that can’t be easily stitched into the canvas. Did you know that strings of beads can also be couched in place to add dimension to a work?

Look, for example, at the “Crazy Christmas Trees” canvas below…

Couching an array of fuzzy, sparkly threads – or even strings of beads – for the garland would really add some extra pizazz to the trees on this design, don’t you think? 😉

Couch down a sparkly thread like Precious Metals for a terrific garland on a Christmas tree like the ones on this fun canvas by Alice Peterson Designs.

This diagram shows couching done in a straight line, but couching can be done over virtually any design line on a painted canvas.

Couching is a terrific way to use highly textured threads on your needlepoint projects without having to actually stitch them into your canvas.

I’m couching Precious Metals thread…

Precious Metals is a synthetic blend thread – 70% metallic polyester/30% acrylic. It comes in 6 metallic colors and each card holds 5 yards.

Rainbow Gallery suggests that it works best on 7 – 18 mesh needlepoint canvas. It’s kind of like a mini-garland. The core thread has short little metallic fringes hanging off of it. It’s super-cute and quite easy to work with. You can stitch it through the canvas, but I prefer the way it looks when it’s couched down.

Use it “as is” off the card. Your pieces should be no longer than 20″ since anything longer than that has a tendency to tangle before you can secure it to the canvas. Use Petite Silk Lamé Braid or Splendor as your couching thread.

Precious Metals has a slight tendency to unravel, so you might want to treat the ends with Fray Check or a Thread Zap.

Our fourth – and final – stitch, Leviathan, is terrific for…

stars, flower centers and tiny individual flowers, shrubbery, including hedgerows, stone buildings, walls, and fences, and clothing embellishment.

In fact, the Leviathan stitch would be a dandy choice for the centers of the flowers in that cute EyeCandy canvas in the picture below.

The Leviathan stitch is the perfect choice for stitching circular areas on your needlepoint projects.

The Leviathan stitch is easy-peasy to work, so long as you follow the numbers on the stitch diagram.😉

Leviathan stitch is a terrific choice for stone buildings, walls, fences, shrubbery, flowers, and clothing embellishment on your needlepoint projects.

I’m using Razzle-Dazzle 6 to work the Leviathan stitch

Razzle-Dazzle 6 is a highly textured synthetic blend thread – 70% nylon/30% metallic polyester. It comes in 30 glittering colors and each card holds 10 yards.

It’s a 6 ply (hence the “6” in the name) frizette type thread. What the heck does frizette mean? Well, it refers to a curly or frizzy fringe and, while Razzle-Dazzle 6 isn’t a fringed thread, it is very nubby. Use a needle one size larger than the canvas mesh calls for when stitching with it. Why? So you can get it through the canvas more easily.

Use Razzle-Dazzle 6 “as is” directly off the card. There’s no need to use a laying tool with this thread, but you’ll definitely want to use a Thread Zap on the ends to cut down on the fraying.

Cut short pieces, no longer than 16″, if you’re working on 14 mesh needlepoint canvas.

And here’s a little tip for you…

use Razzle-Dazzle 6 for long stitches on 18 mesh canvas – or couch it down. It’s tough to stitch it directly into the canvas on finer mesh sizes.

Next time…

I’ll share even more stitches that you can use with the threads in the Threadventure thread kit. I’m having soooo much fun – and I’m tickled to have you here with me every week.

So – I’ll see you again here, same time. 😉

(That’s the first thing every Thursday morning, in case you’re new to the Serendipity family.)

Oh – and before you go, tell me which one of these stitches or threads you’re going to try first this week. You can share it in the comments box below. Don’t be shy… I love, Love, LOVE hearing from you and I read every single one of your notes! ❤️

When you leave your thoughts down below in the comments box, I’ll enter your name into a drawing for a free one-month membership in The Stitcher’s Club. Not sure what The Stitcher’s Club is? Click here to find out more.
Enrollment opens soon!

Until next time, happy stitching!
XOXO!!!
Stitch with a smile!

 

 

PS: I’ll share pictures of my stitched samples over on the Serendipity Needleworks Facebook page, inside the Serendipity Needleworks Facebook group and on Instagram, so be sure and follow me there.

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